While London may top my list of favorite cities, Edinburgh is a place that captured my heart instantly. I could blame it on the Scottish blood that runs through my veins, but truth be told, it holds a certain magic that I haven’t seen matched anywhere else in the world. Its blend of old world and new makes it the perfect destination for urban dwellers seeking a glimpse into the past. Though I feel my list grows every time I visit, below are my top recommendations on where to stay, eat, and explore in Edinburgh.
STAY
Unlike its big city counterpart to the south, London, the city of Edinburgh is relatively inexpensive for the UK. To truly get a feel for the city, I recommend staying in Old Town near the Royal Mile. The beautiful architecture makes it feel like you’ve stepped back in time, but you still have access to all the modern amenities you could want.
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Airbnb: The Airbnbs I’ve stayed in here are wildly inexpensive for what you’re getting. You can stay in modern, well-decorated flats on the Royal Mile for a fraction of the price of an actual hotel. I’ve had three amazing experiences with Airbnb in Edinburgh, and it really makes you feel like a local.
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Hilton Edinburgh Carlton: I stumbled upon this option almost by accident, but I am so glad I did. Most Airbnbs have a two-night stay minimum, and my cousin and I needed a spot to place to crash for one night before our Highlands tour left the next day and were very lucky to discover this. This place is centrally located right on the Royal Mile, just steps from all of the action of Old Town. The rooms are clean and modern, and the wallet-friendly prices of their basic rooms really can’t be beat.
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The Balmoral: While I personally have not stayed here, this hotel is one of the highest rated in Edinburgh. Named after the royal Scottish residence, The Balmoral lives up to its name and provides luxury fit for a queen (or king). Even if you don’t stay here, you can get a taste of that luxury by stopping in for a drink or afternoon tea!
*Tip: If you choose to rent an Airbnb for your stay in Edinburgh, make sure you read the details of the flat thoroughly. Because the city is so old many buildings do not have elevators, and if you’re a chronic overpacker like me, it can be challenging to lug a large suitcase up four flights of stairs. There are definitely ground floor or first floor flats available, but reading the fine print on Airbnb ads can help shield you from a surprise like that.
EAT
London may be an international hub for all kinds of cuisine, but Edinburgh can certainly hold its own with its culinary scene. Of all the trips I’ve made here, I don’t think I’ve ever encountered a bad meal. Though unfamiliar, I would encourage you to sample some of the local dishes. Don’t knock haggis ’til you’ve tried it! But if boiled sheep innards aren’t your style, Edinburgh is a port town so they have incredible seafood options as well. Below are just a handful of my favorite spots throughout the city.
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Deacon Brodie’s: A traditional Scottish pub on the main drag of the Royal Mile, this spot is cozy and perfect for a meal that won’t break the bank. They serve traditional pub food and their beer selection is great.
The Hanging Bat: BBQ and brews…what more could a traveling Texan want? Just a quick walk from the Royal Mile, The Hanging Bat specializes in American comfort food like pulled pork and mac n cheese and has over 30 beers on tap, so if you’re looking for a taste of home, this should do the trick.
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Howie’s: This bright and airy spot on colorful Victoria Street is a great, well-priced option for lunch! If you’re extra hungry, they have an incredible deal for a three-course meal or you can choose a la carte.
Devil’s Advocate: Hidden down a narrow “close” off the Royal Mile, this restaurant has delicious food and the ambiance to match. Their cocktail bar is amazing as well, so stop in early for a drink before dinner.
Scran & Scallie: A little off the beaten path, this place isn’t necessarily walkable if you’re staying in Old Town but man, it is worth the trek. This is a new find from my most recent stay in Edinburgh and the food here is incredible. They do modern twists on a lot of traditional Scottish dishes. Try the ham, egg and chips plate!
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The Witchery: Located at the foot of Edinburgh Castle, The Witchery is a dining experience like no other. With the candlelit ambiance of another century, this restaurant lives up to its name and has a menu to match. Every time I’ve been in Edinburgh this is the best meal I have, hands down. Make sure you request the Secret Garden room for the ultimate experience.
The Dome: Where The Witchery has mystery and charm, The Dome has stately grandeur. There are multiple dining rooms to choose from, depending on the experience you want, and the food is delicious across the board. Plus, if you’re there over the holidays, their Christmas decorations are next level.
*Tip: I highly recommend you try out some traditional Scottish dishes while you’re here, even if the names sound a little intimidating. Understandably, haggis can be a little too out there for some, but things like cullen skink, a creamy seafood soup, and a side dish of neeps and tatties (also known as turnips and potatoes) prepared pureed with chives, are great options to get a taste of the local cuisine.
EXPLORE
See
Dean Village: This quaint neighborhood is a stone’s throw away from the city center, situated along the Water of Leith. It’s as picturesque as can be and makes one of the best spots for that perfect Instagram shot. Once you’re walking around this village of 19th-century homes it’s hard to believe that you’re only 10-15 minutes from the bustling Princes Street shops and center of town.
Circus Lane: Another beautiful area outside of the city’s main streets, Circus Lane is a residential street that looks like it was lifted straight from a movie set. It’s a short street but definitely worth a stroll if you’re in the area.
Kirkyards: Truth be told, I’ve always found cemeteries beautiful in an eerie type of way. I always thought that was strange, but it turns out in Scotland, “kirkyards” (the word for "graveyard" or cemetary" in Scotland) are nothing to be feared and people oftentimes seek them out to relax or find some peace and quiet. There are plenty throughout the city, but most notable is Greyfriars Kirkyard. It happens to be around the corner from the coffee shop where JK Rowling first penned Harry Potter, and you just might see some tombstones with some veryyy familiar names…
Do
Arthur’s Seat: If you’re looking to get some exercise, head down to the foot of the Royal Mile to hike up the hill known as Arthur’s Seat. Depending on the route you take, you can get quite the workout. Whether you decide to take it easy or challenge yourself, you’ll end up with a breathtaking view to top it off.
Holyrood Palace: If you’re into British history, you should definitely make time to visit Holyrood Palace. Situated on the opposite end of the Royal Mile as Edinburgh Castle, the palace was home to Mary Queen of Scots, as well as a long list of other monarchs and royals. Well worth your money, and the Abbey ruins on the palace grounds are absolutely stunning.
Walking Tour or Ghost Tour: As a first timer to the city, the thing I would most recommend is Sandemans free walking tour of the city. It’s the most efficient way to see all of the best sites and get the history along with it. Edinburgh is also supposedly one of the most haunted cities in the world, so if you’re into ghosts and folklore, the same company runs nightly ghost tours as well!
Shop
Victoria Street: A short but colorful street in Old Town, Victoria Street has no shortage of shops and vendors. My top recommendations? IJ Mellis Cheesemonger (their cheese is delicious and they’ll let you sample some for free!), Walker Slater (where you can find traditional Scottish tweeds, tartan , and scarves) and, of course, The Boy Wizard (a Harry Potter themed shop).
Grassmarket: Like most of the city, the Grassmarket has a long and slightly macabre history. Since the 1300’s, this open area was one of the main trading posts for goods and livestock…and also the site of Edinburgh’s public executions. Nowadays, the gallows are long gone and the area is now lined with shops and pubs a plenty! Stop into one of the pubs for pint post-shopping. I recommend The Last Drop, with its tongue-in-cheek nod to the area’s history.
Christmas Markets: Edinburgh has its own kind of magic going for it year round, but during the holidays that magic is amplified by the Christmas markets along Princes Street. There’s everything from food and drink to decor and apparel, all housed in adorable market stalls.
The whole city is full of secrets waiting to be discovered, and I hope this list gives you a bit of a head start.
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